How to Anchor Furniture to the Wall: A Tip-Over Safety Guide

How to Anchor Furniture to the Wall: A Tip-Over Safety Guide

Tall, narrow furniture can be surprisingly unstable. A loaded bookcase, a wardrobe with the doors open, or a chest of drawers with the top drawers pulled out can tip forward if someone climbs on it, leans on it, or pulls it the wrong way. In homes with children, pets, or anyone unsteady on their feet, that is a real risk.

The fix is simple and cheap: fix the furniture to the wall. Here we cover which pieces should be anchored, what fixings to use for different walls, how to do it step by step, and how to keep the holes to a minimum if you rent.

It is part of our wider guide to end of tenancy wall repairs, since fixings and holes go hand in hand.

Which furniture should you anchor?

As a general rule, anything tall, top-heavy or easy to pull over is worth securing. That includes:

• Wardrobes, especially tall or narrow ones
• Bookcases and shelving units, particularly when filled with books
• Chests of drawers and dressers, which can tip when several drawers are open at once
• Tall cabinets and display units
• TV units and stands that carry a heavy or tall television
• Freestanding shelving in kids’ rooms, nurseries and playrooms

Low, wide, heavy furniture is much less likely to topple, but if you have young children or the piece is on a sloping floor, it can still be worth anchoring.

Check the instructions first

A lot of flat pack furniture ships with a wall fixing, such as a strap, bracket or small plate, in the fittings bag. Do not throw it away. The instructions will usually show where it fits and what it is designed to fix to.

That said, the screws and plastic plugs supplied are often basic. They may suit a particular wall type, but not yours. If your wall is plasterboard, masonry or something unusual, it is worth choosing fixings that are properly suited to the wall.

What you will need

• The furniture’s own restraint kit, if it came with one, or a suitable bracket or strap
• Fixings for your wall type (see below)
• A drill and the right drill bits, including a masonry bit if needed
• A stud, pipe and cable detector
• A pencil, tape measure and spirit level
• A screwdriver
• A second person, for steadying the furniture
• Safety glasses

Step 1: Find out what is in your wall

The right fixing depends entirely on what is behind the surface, so check before you buy anything.

• Timber stud wall (covered in plasterboard): the best option. Screws into a stud have the strongest grip, so aim for a stud wherever you can.
• Plasterboard with an empty cavity: you will need heavy-duty cavity fixings designed for plasterboard.
• Solid brick, block or concrete: use masonry wall plugs and screws, or frame fixings suited to the material.
• Metal stud walls: use fixings designed for metal studs.

Use a detector to locate studs, and also to check for pipes and electrical cables behind the wall. If you are unsure what is behind a wall, ask a qualified tradesperson before you drill.

Step 2: Choose fixings that suit the wall

• Into a timber stud: a good-quality screw that goes through the bracket and the plasterboard and bites well into the timber. This is usually the first choice.
• Into plasterboard only: a cavity fixing such as a spring toggle or a strong plasterboard anchor. Check the weight rating on the pack, and remember that rating assumes ideal conditions, so choose a margin above what you think you need and use two fixings where possible.
• Into masonry: the right size masonry plug and screw, drilled to the depth the pack recommends.

Do not use tiny plastic plugs or short wood screws for a tall wardrobe or a loaded bookcase. They are designed for light loads and can pull out under the sort of force a tip-over involves.

Step 3: Position the furniture and mark the fixing points

1. Move the furniture into its final position, then push it flush against the wall.
2. Mark the position of the bracket or strap on the back or top of the furniture, using the supplied instructions or a spot near the top, where the restraint does most good.
3. Mark the corresponding point on the wall with a pencil, and use a level to make sure the line is straight.
4. Slide the furniture out of the way to access the wall.

Fixing near the top of the piece works best, because that is where tipping force is greatest. If you have a stud in the right place, mark that. Otherwise, mark the position for a cavity fixing.

Step 4: Fit the wall fixing

1. Drill a pilot hole at the right size for your fixing, going slowly and keeping the drill straight.
2. Fit the wall plug or cavity fixing, if the fixing needs one.
3. Screw the bracket or strap bracket to the wall, so it is tight but not over-tightened. Over-tightening can crush the plasterboard or strip the fixing.
4. Attach the other end of the strap or bracket to the furniture, following the instructions.

Step 5: Test it

Push the furniture gently forward and sideways at the top. It should not move or lean. Give the fixing a tug as well. If anything feels loose, remove it and fix the problem before you load the furniture.

If the piece has drawers, check that opening them does not make it rock, and do not rely on the drawer interlocks alone. Interlocks help, but a wall fixing is a more reliable safeguard.

Tips for specific furniture

• Wardrobes: fit two fixings at the top where possible. Wardrobes are heavy when full, and doors can be tugged and hung on by children. Our guide to [assembling an IKEA PAX wardrobe] covers how long that job really takes.
• Bookcases: secure the top, and load the heaviest items on the lowest shelves. Fixing a bookcase to a stud is much better than relying on the wall board alone.
• Chests of drawers: fix at the top, and load the lower drawers with heavier items.
• TV units: tall or narrow units with a large TV on top benefit from a fixing. A separate strap for the TV itself is also worth considering.
• Corner pieces: fix to both walls where possible.

Renting? Keep holes small and tidy

Anchoring furniture means drilling into the wall, so if you rent, check your tenancy agreement and ask your landlord for permission in writing. Most landlords are understanding when the reason is safety. Our guide on whether a landlord can charge for nail holes explains how holes are usually treated.

• Use as few fixings as you safely can, but never skimp on safety.
• Photograph the wall before and after, using our [end of tenancy photo checklist].
• When you move out, remove the fixings, then fill and repaint. See how to fill nail holes in a wall and our guide to [matching touch-up paint].
• Cavity fixings can leave bigger holes, so for any torn or larger areas, see [how to patch a large hole in plasterboard].

Common mistakes to avoid

• Skipping the fixing because the furniture “seems stable”. Stability changes when drawers are open or the piece is loaded.
• Using the wrong fixing for the wall. A plug designed for brick will not hold in plasterboard.
• Fixing too low. Tipping force is greatest near the top.
• Over-tightening. It can crush plasterboard and weaken the hold.
• Not checking for pipes and cables. Always check before drilling.
• Anchoring then overloading. A wall fixing is a safeguard, not permission to overload furniture.

Let us help

If you would rather not drill into the wall yourself, or you have a lot of furniture to put together and secure, we can help. We provide expert flat pack furniture assembly across Camden, Islington, Hackney, Barnet, Brent, Westminster and Haringey, including securing tall pieces to the wall with the right fixings for your wall type. For heavier fixtures like mirrors and shelving, take a look at our professional wall mounting. If you rent, get your landlord’s permission first.